The term “petticoat” conjures images of historical grandeur, rustling skirts, and perhaps a touch of old-world charm. Yet, this humble undergarment has a fascinating and surprisingly dynamic history, evolving from a practical necessity to a diverse fashion element that continues to find its place in modern wardrobes, particularly in certain cultural contexts. Far from being relegated to the dusty annals of costume history, the petticoat, in its various forms, remains a topic of considerable interest, especially with the resurgence of vintage-inspired fashion and the enduring appeal of traditional attire like the saree.

What is a Petticoat? A Definition Across Eras

At its core, a petticoat is an underskirt worn beneath a skirt or dress. Its primary purpose has always been to provide shape, volume, modesty, or simply a smooth layer for outer garments to drape over. The precise meaning and form of the petticoat, however, have varied significantly across centuries and cultures.

Historically, the word “petticoat” (derived from the Old French petite cote, meaning “little coat”) first appeared in the 15th century, referring to a padded undercoat worn by men. By the 16th century, it had become a prominent women’s undergarment. For centuries, petticoats were crucial for achieving fashionable silhouettes, from the wide bell shapes of the Victorian era to the more subtle enhancements of the early 20th century.

In modern American usage, a “petticoat” often refers to a garment hanging from the waist, distinct from a full slip which might include a bodice. However, in many other parts of the world, especially in South Asia, the term “petticoat” (or sometimes “saree petticoat”) specifically refers to the foundational underskirt worn with a saree.

A Stroll Through History: The Evolution of the Petticoat

The journey of the petticoat is a testament to changing fashion ideals and societal norms:

Middle Ages to 16th Century: Early petticoats were simple underskirts, often made of linen or wool, providing warmth and protection for outer garments. As dresses began to feature open fronts, the petticoat sometimes became visible and was occasionally adorned with embroidery or brocade, hinting at its decorative potential.

17th and 18th Centuries: With the popularity of looped-up outer skirts and styles like the polonaise, the petticoat became a more prominent feature, often made from rich fabrics and decorated with lace and ribbons. Quilted petticoats were also common, offering warmth and showcasing intricate handiwork.

19th Century (Victorian Era): This era is perhaps most synonymous with the voluminous petticoat. Women wore multiple layers, often starched, to achieve the desired wide, bell-shaped skirts. The mid-19th century saw the rise of the crinoline (originally made of horsehair and later of steel hoops), a structured petticoat designed to support the immense skirts without the discomfort and weight of numerous fabric layers. While the crinoline offered freedom of movement compared to many fabric layers, its size often restricted daily activities.

Early 20th Century: As fashion moved towards more slender silhouettes, the voluminous petticoat largely disappeared, replaced by simpler underskirts or slips worn for modesty and to ensure outer garments hung smoothly.

Mid-20th Century Revival: Christian Dior’s “New Look” in 1947 brought back the full-skirted silhouette, and with it, tiered, ruffled, and stiffened petticoats experienced a resurgence in popularity throughout the 1950s and 1960s, creating iconic voluminous dresses.

Late 20th Century to Present: While not a ubiquitous everyday garment in Western fashion, the petticoat has continued to appear in specific contexts, such as bridal wear, formal evening gowns, and subcultures like Lolita fashion. Most notably, it remains an indispensable component of traditional attire in many cultures, most prominently with the Indian saree.

The Modern Petticoat: Focus on the Saree

Today, when many people search for “petticoat,” especially in South Asia, they are often referring to the specialized underskirt worn with a saree. The saree petticoat is crucial for providing the necessary structure and fall for the saree drape, preventing it from clinging to the body unattractively, and ensuring a smooth, elegant silhouette.

Types of Saree Petticoats and Their Materials:

The choice of petticoat for a saree depends heavily on the saree’s fabric, drape, and the desired look.

Cotton Petticoats:

Description: The most traditional and widely used type. They are soft, lightweight, and breathable.

Best for: Daily wear sarees, cotton sarees, and summer wear. They offer comfort and a light base for a fluid drape.

Materials: Pure cotton, cotton blends.

Why people love them: Comfort, breathability, durability, and ease of maintenance.

Satin Petticoats:

Description: Known for their smooth, shiny finish, which provides a luxurious and elegant fall to the saree.

Best for: Silk, satin, chiffon, and georgette sarees, as well as party wear or special occasions where a polished, graceful drape is desired. They help sheer fabrics drape beautifully without clinging.

Materials: Satin (often polyester satin for affordability), silk satin.

Why people love them: Smooth texture, natural sheen, and enhancing the richness of the saree.

Shapewear Petticoats (Saree Shapers):

Description: A modern innovation, these combine the functionality of a petticoat with the contouring benefits of shapewear. They are typically snug around the waist and hips, flaring out at the bottom.

Best for: Contemporary saree drapes, sheer or lightweight sarees (like net or georgette), and occasions where a streamlined, body-hugging silhouette is desired with tummy control and no visible seams.

Materials: Cotton-lycra blends, nylon-spandex, or other stretchy, seamless fabrics.

Why people love them: Smooth silhouette, enhanced body contouring, comfort for long hours, and preventing the saree from clinging.

A-line Petticoats:

Description: Flared from the waist, resembling the letter ‘A’, providing a modest amount of volume.

Best for: Flowy sarees, lehenga sarees, chiffon, georgette, or soft silk sarees where a gentle bounce and fuller look are preferred without excessive volume.

Materials: Various fabrics, including cotton, satin, or crepe.

Mermaid/Fishtail Petticoats:

Description: Fitted around the waist and thighs, then flaring out dramatically towards the bottom, mimicking a mermaid’s tail.

Best for: Modern saree styles, net sarees, or designer sarees that require a defined, fitted shape with a glamorous flare at the hem. Ideal for a “red carpet” look.

Materials: Often stretchy fabrics like lycra or blends that allow for a snug fit.

Can-Can Petticoats:

Description: These feature multiple layers of stiff net or tulle fabric, designed to create maximum volume and a dramatic flare.

Best for: Bridal sarees, heavy wedding sarees, or any saree where a majestic, voluminous, princess-like look is desired. Modern versions are designed to provide volume without excessive weight.

Materials: Tulle, net, organza.

Petticoat vs. Slip: What’s the Difference?

While often used interchangeably, especially in modern Western contexts, there can be a distinction:

Petticoat: Traditionally, a petticoat is a skirt worn as an undergarment. It can be simple or highly structured, designed to add volume or provide a smooth layer. In some regions, it specifically refers to the saree underskirt.

Slip (or Full Slip/Half Slip): A slip is typically a lighter, less structured undergarment. A full slip includes a bodice and is worn under a dress for modesty or to prevent static. A half slip is essentially an underskirt, similar to a simple petticoat, designed for modesty and to help outer skirts hang smoothly. The key difference lies in the emphasis: slips are generally for smoothness and modesty, while petticoats historically (and in certain modern applications) are about shape and volume.

How to Choose and Wear the Perfect Petticoat

For sarees, selecting the right petticoat is paramount for achieving the desired drape and look.

Match the Color: The most crucial rule is to match the petticoat color as closely as possible to your saree. A mismatched petticoat can show through sheer fabrics and detract from the overall aesthetic. It’s advisable to have common shades like white, black, gold, and skin tones readily available.

Consider the Fabric: Choose the petticoat fabric based on your saree. Cotton for everyday comfort, satin for a smooth, shiny finish under silk or sheer sarees, and shapewear for a sleek, contoured look.

Ensure the Right Fit: The petticoat should fit snugly but comfortably around your waist and hips. Too tight, and it will be uncomfortable; too loose, and the saree won’t stay in place. Waist styles can include drawstrings (for adjustable tightness) or elastic bands (for quick wear).

Check the Length: The petticoat should be just a little above your toes, ensuring it doesn’t peek out from under the saree when you walk or sit. If it’s too short, the saree won’t drape properly; if too long, it will be visible.

Volume and Layers: For voluminous skirts or sarees, multiple layers of petticoats (or a can-can petticoat) might be needed. For a traditional fit, one layer is often sufficient.

Waistband Comfort: Ensure the waistband is comfortable and securely holds the saree without slipping.

FAQs

What exactly is a petticoat?

A petticoat is a skirt-like undergarment worn beneath dresses or skirts to add volume, shape, modesty, or warmth. In historical contexts, petticoats were sometimes designed for display, while in modern use they serve as an underskirt or half-slip to enhance outer garments 

What is the origin and history of petticoats?

The word “petticoat” stems from Middle English pety cote meaning “small coat,” appearing as early as the 14th century and worn by both sexes 

In the 16th–18th centuries, women wore embroidered and decorative petticoats meant to be seen under gowns .

By the Victorian era, petticoats became structured undergarments, often layered or supported by hoops/crinolines to sculpt fashionable silhouettes 

Their prominence declined in the 20th century as skirts became less voluminous and light slips took over these functions 

 What types of petticoats are available today?

Contemporary petticoats come in various styles to suit different needs:

Full-length or crinoline petticoats: Offer volume and structure with layers of tulle or hoops for bridal and formal wear 

Half slips: Simple underskirts that prevent transparency and provide comfort 

Tulle or tiered petticoats: Provide light volume for vintage-style or party dresses 

Saree underskirts (India): Essential for sari draping, often high-waisted and fitted 

 Why wear a petticoat—what are the benefits?

Volume & Shape: Enhances flared or structured silhouettes .

Modesty: Prevents see-through fabric issues 

Comfort: Adds a soft layer against rough fabrics 

Easy Movement: Keeps skirts lifted slightly for walking without tripping 

Costume use: Vital for historical dress, dance costumes, and bridal wear 

What materials are commonly used for petticoats?

Cotton: Soft and breathable, ideal for everyday use 

Satin or silk: Smooth and luxurious, good underneath formal gowns 

Tulle, netting, organza: Lightweight yet structured fabrics used in layered or crinoline petticoats 

Hoop/crinoline wire: Metal or synthetic hoops used to hold out the skirt shape 

 How do I choose the right petticoat for my outfit?

Check dress style: A-line for subtle flare; crinoline for full skirt; mermaid for curve-enhancing styles .

Decide on volume: More layers = more fullness.

Consider fabric: Soft cotton for daily wear; tulle/hoops for dramatic silhouettes.

Fit around waist/hip: Especially important under saris or fitted dresses .

How to care for and maintain petticoats?

Storage: Fold soft tulle or organza gently; hang hoops separately to maintain shape 

Cleaning: Hand wash cotton/petticoats; air-dry. Tulle/hoops require spot cleaning.

Reshaping: Use steam to fluff tulle that has flattened .

 Are petticoats coming back into fashion?

Yes—petticoats are experiencing a revival:

Used in bridal wear, themed parties, re-enactments, plus retro and TikTok (e.g., #coquettecore) trends 

Dior’s January 2025 couture show showcased redesigned hooped petticoats paired with modern silhouettes 

To conclude

Petticoats are timeless garments that blend function and fashion—from their medieval origins to today’s modern interpretations. They offer structure, modesty, warmth, and style for everyday wear, historical dress, bridal gowns, and contemporary runway fashion. With a variety of types—cotton, tulle, hoop-supported—you can choose based on volume, comfort, or visual impact.

Whether you’re searching for added flair, performing in a period piece, styling a sari, or embracing #coquettecore trends on social media, petticoats remain relevant and versatile. A well-chosen or handmade petticoat can transform your garment, elevate your silhouette, and keep your look polished and confidently put together.

To read more , click here